Happy Holidays!

We are now in Nashville again for the holidays. I am posting the last picture of us with the boat. We wish everyone a wonderful time with family and friends.
Check this blog again when we return to Sea Dream in mid-January.

Docked Again in Brunswick, GA

Our final voyage south included warm weather, calm seas and some ocean fog. We cruised the Intra Coastal Waterway on Monday before anchoring in a delightful, secluded marsh creek near Sapelo Island. Tuesday we voyaged offshore into patchy fog from Doboy Sound, reversing our northbound tracks last July, and returned to Saint Simon's Sound, then to Brunswick. After 1,881 cruising miles, it was a homecoming

We've had an adventure of a life time and learned many things about ourselves, Sea Dream and live-aboard boating. A best part was meeting many more boaters and sharing adventures. Our adventure has included the shear wonder of nature, learning through mistakes, shuddering over near misses and the thrill of new discoveries. Seeking adventure, one must be willing to put them self at some risk while making ready for and being open to handling what comes your way.

Adventure makes life much fuller and live-aboard cruising will certainly bring it to you! It's nearly impossible not to want more.

We'll spend the next three days cleaning and maintaining Sea Dream. We expect to leave Brunswick on Sunday and drive to Savannah to visit Molly & Matt in their cottage. Then it's on to Blue Ridge to winterize the cabin and finally back to Nashville. Our stay in Nashville will depend on weather and responsibilities; could be a week or even several months. I will begin blogging again on our return to Sea Dream.

Until then, “Life is what you make it.”

Peasoup fog a few miles offshore

Beautiful skies on the Waterway

Almost Southern Weather in Beaufort

WEDNESDAY was a 40 mile (short) from Steamboat Creek to Beaufort. The marshes were golden and some Fall colors appearing. Many dolphins played in our wake. We anchored in Beaufort about 2:00 PM. Our good friends Bettie and Klaas VanEsselstyn of Moon Beam, an N37, treated us to a really fun dinner at their home. Their beautiful lot is surrounded by live oaks on the bank of an small river nearby. They tie Moon Beam at their own back yard dock. Bettie and I enjoyed walking the dogs, Louis and ChiaSia, in the warm evening while Mike and Klaas swapped boat stories. Both dogs managed to get covered with “Hitch-Hike Burs” so we picked them off sitting on the dock watching a full moon rising. She made southern “Frog More” a stew of boiled shrimp, corn, sausage and new potatoes seasoned with bay leaves and crab boil spices. Delicious! We all talked boat adventures until 10:00PM before they drove us back to the dinghy and Sea Dream.
THURSDAY- Today Mike changed the engine oil and diddled on Sea Dream while I Bettie and I went shopping and out to lunch in perfect, low 70's weather.

FRIDAY- The sun was shining and I was sipping my coffee when Mike suggested we stay another day. It will be warm and beautiful, so why not? We are having such a good time in the mild weather, unlike the summer heat last August. This morning we went to town for the Veteran's Day parade. What a treat! There were several marching bands with great rhythms. Louis hated the drums, though, and shuddered as they passed. Afterward, we had hot chocolate at a water front cafe and warmed in the sun. Mike said tonight,”Let's stay another day!"

Viewing Beaufort, from SeaDream

Louis enjoying the view from his bed

Bettie where we had lunch in Beaufort.

Continuing South Where the Sun Still Shines

MONDAY- We really enjoyed Barefoot Marina, with a huge grassy field for Louie to run and dock fees of $1.25 a foot, electricity and pump out included! We pumped out and were on our way by 8:30 AM this morning. We shared cheery goodbyes with Gene & Judy as they tossed our lines. There was only one bridge to wait for today. It was the Socastee Swing Bridge, which should have opened on demand. Unfortunately, just as we reached the bridge, a gaggle of sail boats slowly peeked around the far end of the canal, well behind us. The bridge tender waited for them all to catch up, insuring a ½ hour wait for us, doing the bridge dance. From there on the day was lovely with Fall colors as we moved further South.

Our anchor spot tonight is in the South Santee River, somewhere between Georgetown and Charleston, SC. The sun is setting and the moon is up with the marsh grasses glowing golden all around. We're completely alone. Louis and Mike are romping on the front deck and all is well.

Looking out the port hole at the Fall colors.

Mike and Louis romping on the deck.

The golden marsh grasses and the moon are our view this evening.

Winds on the Waterway

THURSDAY- We took on 501 gallons of diesel before continuing south from Swansboro about 10:00AM. There were four bridges, restricted to opening on either the hour or half hour, to juggle on the day's agenda. We lucked out at Camp LeJeune: there was no live firing practice across the ICW, which often stops all boat traffic for several hours. At 5:30 PM we dropped anchor at Wrightsville Beach, with winds building. Shortly afterward, Bob and Greg on Doc Holiday, Bob & Julie's new Juneau 45 sailboat, entered the inlet from the open ocean and anchored behind us. Today they had had wonderful off-shore sailing but tomorrow, waves are expected to grow to 20+ feet. They've wisely opted to travel the ICW, instead, for the rest of their trip to Beaufort, SC.

I barbecued hamburgers and we watched T.V. as the wind gathered strength. A gale warning for North Carolina's southern off shore waters is predicted.

FRIDAY- It was was rainy and windy, as predicted, but we traveled southward, leaving the worst behind. We only had one bridge to wait for in strong winds before ending our 70 mile day at Barefoot Marina near Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. Bob and Greg soon docked behind us and came over for potluck dinner. We had a great time eating and swapping stories.

SATURDAY- The rain left but the high winds with gusts to 35 mph continued. We're staying here today and may tomorrow to see two other Great Harbour owner couples. I did wash and we walked over the swing bridge, a very eerie feeling, wondering if it would move!

Fellow GH owners Gene and Judy Koetitz on LoQueSeA, a GH37, have been here for several weeks. We had a lengthy Happy Hour, comparing notes and trying to learn from their seven years of live-aboard cruising experience. Tomorrow Henry and Debbie Dennig, from Seven Tenths, a GH47, will arrive for even more cruiser talk. We had a lot of fun with them in Baltimore a few weeks ago.

Misty morning in Swansboro.

Going down the ICW in North Carolina.

View out our side door in Barefoot Marina, South Carolina.

Picture of Rachel, Linda's daughter, and puppies with Fall colors in Seattle.

Moving South

WEDNESDAY- I can hardly believe it's Wednesday already! After a long run, Monday night we found a secluded anchorage in the Pungo River in northern North Carolina before Pamlico Sound. The wind blew 20-25 mph with heavy rain but our anchor held and we were warm and dry in Sea Dream. Tuesday we made another 65 miles or so in good weather, finally anchoring in one of our favorite spots in the South River across the Neuse River from Oriental, NC. The sky was filled with stars and no one else was in sight. We had a nice dinner and watched TV. Phone and internet service were terrible but TV reception was good.

Early today we joined another sailboat parade making its way South. The weather is still good and the wind stays about 15mph. We anchored in one of our favorite little towns, Swansboro, NC. The wind isn't blowing much but the current is very strong here, running 2-3 knots. After taking Louis for a nice walk in the quiet streets we had dinner in the local seafood restaurant. It was a treat to walk and eat ashore. Now the dinghy is back in it's cradle and we're off to bed.

Happy Halloween!

Truck with fishing polls mounted on front in Swansboro.

Sea Dream anchored in Swansboro.

Still in Elizabeth City

SATURDAY-was rainy, windy and cold. We did walk around town some and took a courtesy car to the grocery store for milk, bread, & eggs. The parts for the dinghy davit came in so we will be ready to move on Monday.

SUNDAY- Today it was sunny but very cold in the 40's. Had lunch with Larry and Susan MacDonald from a sailboat “Kanau”. They have lived aboard for 12 years. Later this evening Linda & John and the MacDonalds came over for wine and snacks and we shared boating stories. Mike is now working on the davit engine some more. The plug is the real problem and of course we don't have a replacement. He by passed the switch plug and it works!!

Leaving tomorrow early. Weather should be good. Too cold to go to Edenton so will go south.

Just keeping warm.

Rain in the bedroom or condensate?

A nice park right by the boat.

Cool old Coke add.

Rafting Up & Gale Warnings

THURSDAY- As we finished the beautiful Dismal Swamp, the West winds were blowing steady 15-20 with 30 mph gusts. We hoped to visit Elizabeth City but the free docks and marinas were full of Southbound cruisers waiting out the weather. While backtracking to an anchorage, John Reynolds radioed and said we should raft up with his & Linda's boat, EASY, a GH37, at the city dock. The relentless wind made Mike hesitate but the wind was blowing away from Easy so we would only be blown toward open water if our approach failed. We decided to try it. It was a tricky to get close, as the wind was really gusting. We approached EASY in a T-bone, easing SEA DREAM's bow close enough for John to secure our long bow line to EASY's bow then Mike walked our stern into the wind toward EASY to tie the rest of the lines. The wind howled all night but we were well secured to EASY and we ran some very large lines around her to the dock. She's 10 feet shorter than SEA DREAM so they make an odd pairing.

FRIDAY- Louie met several other boat dogs at the well-manicured city park right next to the dock. Elizabeth City has a wonderful history museum and many beautiful old homes. It's a quaint, one street small town with a few shops, art stores and restaurants. Mike worked on the davit winch and found that the brake shoes were disintegrated. So, parts are being shipped. Without it we can't launch/retrieve the dinghy. We enjoyed a fun dinner at Grouper's with John & Linda. Tonight and tomorrow have gale warnings so we'll stay put and enjoy being with our friends.

Rafted to Easy.

Another view.

Another Day in Portsmouth & Then on to The Dismal Swamp

TUESDAY- Portsmouth is so interesting; George Washington, Chief Black Hawk, Andrew Jackson, Henry Clay and many other important people were all here. After walking the historic district, we lunched Mexican at a sidewalk table (Louis could sit, too) in town. After browsing the little shops it was back to SeaDream.

Our dock neighbors are Jeff and Karen Siegel, the owners of www.ActiveCaptain.com ! Jeff helped us load Active Captain into our Nobletec TimeZero navigation software. He's an absolute wealth of information about the waterways. Mike has contributed so many reviews to AC that he earned an official Active Captain hat. Might the marinas now treat us with special respect? We'll see!

This afternoon, Bob and Julie docked near us. We all walked the town, stopping for a fun dinner at Lobscourser's. They told us of their adventures on their first solo three day trip down from Baltimore. The first solo is always a bit of a learning curve.

WEDNESDAY- Jeff cast our lines and we left for the Dismal Swamp at 10:30 AM. We motored along, between a huge, tug-steered freighter and a tug/barge combination but both left us at the Virginia cut turn. We ate lunch at a free face dock before entering Deep Creek, headed for the 1:30 PM lock opening, then on to the Dismal Swamp. A bit of confusion leaving the dock caused us to bump our bow on the dock wall, leaving a fiberglass scar. Nuts! At mile marker 20 we tied up for the night at a very small but very sturdy, 20' long dock. Since we're 53' long, it's quite a sight. We hang over 15' at both ends! This narrow swamp canal is peaceful, quiet and beautiful, with trees showing bright Fall colors.

Police woman on her horse in Portsmouth.

Tied at little dock in Dismal Swamp Canal.

Fall colors in the Dismal Swamp.

Staying Another Day in Portsmouth

TUESDAY- We're snugged in at the free ferry dock in Portsmouth,VA, one of our country's oldest ports. Settlers arrived one year after Jamestown. Huge naval vessels and barges are all around but nearby, the “old towne” back streets abound. We've decided to stay an extra day to discover the historic high points. It's very walking friendly and Louis will love it, too.

Last night we went to the 1940's art-deco style Commodore Theater for dinner and a movie with dock neighbors Jan and John. Mike and I thoroughly enjoyed the evening. It's so much fun to hear other boaters' adventures. They are headed south to Fort Pierce, FL.

Tomorrow we'll head for the Dismal Swamp.

Old Borum House in Portsmouth.

Commodore Theater in Portsmouth.

Inside Commordore Theater with tables for dinning.

A Delightfully Easy Day

SUNDAY- Last night was peaceful after the law enforcement boats left. A heavy morning fog kept us anchored until 10:00 AM. As it began to lift, the graceful white swan we had seen on our last visit floated over to renew the acquaintance. Louis was, once again, very curious.

The day was invitingly sunny and cool and the seas very smooth. Traffic was light and cruising was easy. After about 60 miles we settled into our anchorage in Deltaville,VA, an hour before sunset. We still had time to play with Louie and his toys on the fore deck, so that big old space does come in handy sometimes! People on shore were probably amused to see us both running around the deck with him barking excitedly.

Tomorrow we'll reach Norfolk, finally leaving the Chesapeake.

Louis peeking at the swan.

Foggy morning in the Solomon Islands.

Day 2 Southbound

SATURDAY- Hauled a very muddy anchor about 9:30 AM for another beautiful day cruising South. The trip was only 41 miles, taking 6 hours; the auto pilot did most of the steering. We passed a huge container ship and many weekend fishermen and sail boats.

Anchored in Mill Creek at Solomons Island about 3:30, we dinghied ashore to tour this little resort area with it's hundreds of sailboats. Louis happily sniffed every grass blade. The temperature turned nippy at sunset so we returned, hoisted the dinghy and tied it back down.

Tomorrow will be an earlier start as we have almost 60 miles to travel. The weather should be good.

FLASH! As I was about to upload this, a 40 foot steel hulled schooner, underway in the pitch dark, collided with a 32 foot Grand Banks trawler next to us in the anchorage! The sailboat's very long bowsprit nearly t-boned the trawler then raked its port side. No one is injured but the trawler is surely damaged. Mike has our fore deck spot light focused on them, brightly illuminating the scene. There's been much chatter on the emergency VHF channel and several boats of police/Coast Guard, etc have responded.

Clipper Ship at dock here in Solomon.

Louis waiting to go back to the boat.

Our SPOT is finally Moving Again (Click on Sea Dream's picture)

FRIDAY- Leaving Baltimore this sunny day, the West wind helpfully blew us away from the dock! The temperature was a cool 55 degrees as Baltimore's skyline slipped from view. Sailboats were North bound in the Chesapeake Bay in a boisterous broad reach. The waters were clear of debris and we didn't encounter many crab pots.

The boat improvements Capt. Mike made these past few weeks are performing well. The auto pilot, Victrons, high output alternators and prop shaft seals are all working well.

We've just anchored in Rhode River, south of Annapolis, in a quiet bay. The wind has died down and the sun is setting. It'll be pork chops for dinner, Apple Betty for dessert and then a movie on the boat. Life is good today!

A beautiful day to leave after two days of bad weather.

A quiet anchorage at Rhodes River.

Our Bottom Is Clean, Clean, Clean!

TUESDAY- 100% rain and strong winds with 30 mph gusts are expected tomorrow so Capt. Mike arranged for Sea Dream to be hauled today for her first bottom wash and zincs inspection since early May. To our relief and pleasant surprise, the bottom was clean as a whistle, with no barnacles and only a slight slim film. Amazingly, the props were clean, too, thanks to the “Prop Speed” coating. Mike changed the zincs that were about 60% gone.

After our bottom cleaning, we returned to the fuel dock to pump out then to a face dock for quick departure when weather permits.

Louis had an early appointment at "Hair Off the Dog” while I made one last grocery run. Mike continued his boat projects and prepared the engine room. I also stripped the bed and washed the sheets. The washer & dryer aboard are such a convenience.

Weather probably won't allow us to leave tomorrow but Thursday should be better. Check our Spot to see if we leave.

We'll make one last trip this evening to our favorite Italian Bakery with good friends Julie, Bob and Snickers for an ice cream in Canton. We've had such a good time in Baltimore and will miss it.

At the wonderful Sunday Farmers' Market in Baltimore.

Louis at "Hair Off the Dog" after grooming.

Pumping out with Baltimore skyline in background.

Another Boatshow & More Fun With Friends!

THURSDAY- Met with Fred & Linda on Thursday morning and toured the WWII submarine Torsk with a real life Naval officer (Fred). He served aboard a similar sub for several years and knew it inside out. What a treat! After lunch Mike & I wandered the USS Constellation, an historic 160 year old square-rigged warship. She was actually in commission from 1853 until the 1950's!! Her hull timbers were enormous.

In the evening Henry Dennig took Mike, Louie & I, to their boat for a Debbie dinner. The full moon high tide had pushed water over their fixed dock so we waded to Seven Tenths, their Great Harbour GH47. Debbie made crab cakes and baked potatoes with snappy green beans. Double yumm! We had a great evening exchanging boat stories; Henry had Louie barking and prancing.

FRIDAY- We drove to the Power Boat Show in Annapolis, accompanied by Fred and Linda, in a car borrowed from Woody, our AC repairman. Lunched at Pusser's with Richard & Shannon of Esmeralda (Great Harbour N37) and Betty and Klaas of Moon Beam (another Great Harbour N37). It is so much fun exchanging adventure stories and our very malleable plans. Leaving the show we encountered new Great Harbour GH37 owners Ron and Tina (Sea Gypsy) so we all went to Mike's Crab Shack for dinner. Another great day!

SATURDAY- It's been stay-on-the-boat day and a blustery one, indeed, with 25-30 mph winds all day. I cleaned, did laundry and scrubbed the salon rug; then, had my hair cut into a wonderful, carefree boat cut! Mike completed the Sirius radio antenna installation then reinstalled the newly-repaired forward cabin AC unit. The compressor had failed prematurely; parts were warrantied but not the labor so Mike did as much of the work as possible. It's chilly tonight so we had chili and watched a goofy British movie.

Debbie making crab cakes.

Mike, Fred & Linda in submarine.

Mike on USS Constellation.

New hair style.

Many Boats Arriving in Baltimore

MONDAY- Mike rode to Annapolis with Julie for a last day at the sailboat show. Louis and I remained aboard Sea Dream, cleaning, grocery shopping and washing clothes. Later, we had a lot of fun hosting dinner for Henry & Debbie Dennig of Seven-Tenths, a Great Harbor GH47. Having have lived aboard for several Baltimore winters, they have crazy stories, like the day she fell into 36 degree water leaving for work.

TUESDAY- This morning was brightly sunny and warm, perfect for a walk to the Fell's Point post office with Julie, returning along the beautiful water front. Looking over the bay, the tall ships, beautiful schooners, were approaching our marina. They'll parade tomorrow then leave for a race. After docking, they fire their cannon, making Louis dash for safety. Mike's getting antsy to complete some boat projects before we leave early next week.

Linda & Fred Mangelsdorf of Young America, a Great Harbor N37, arrived in Baltimore Inner Harbor. We visited, having a lovely dinner out and desert at the Italian Bakery.

The weather is cooling and rain is expected tonight, 100% tomorrow.

WEDNESDAY- Rain, wind and colder.

Mike patronized Ernesto's, an authentic old-fashioned barber, while Louis & I waited in the park. We lunched on an Italian bakery ham panini before returning to Sea Dream. Dinner is at Doc Holiday (Julie & Bob's Juneau DS49) for hot soup and company.

Julie with Louis & Snickers

Garbage collecting boat with jaws and conveyer belt collecting trash from water.

Clipper ship similar to the one my great-great grandfather sailed on from Germany to Baltimore in 1833.

Young America in background of tall ship.

Boatshow Busy

SUNDAY- Today is our final day at the Annapolis sailboat show. We've had so much fun seeing friends and Mike loves questioning the vendor's, in detail, about Sea Dream's equipment. We've found a few new items, too, but have been very careful about spending our money. Most are on the wish list.

Seeing friends is a highlight of walking the show. Friday, and again Saturday, we palled around with Merwin & Crystal, best friends from Nashville. We surprised Skip & Andrea King, long time friends from St.Thomas, USVI, and kept bumping into our new Canadian friends, Diana & Ross (yes!) and Steve & Linda, new Krogen-owner friends.

Today we'll retrieve Bob & Julie from the airport and hit the show for another half-day.

Louis lived it up with Hanna, his new girlfriend, for a two hour walk yesterday. His babe magnetism never fails!

Mike and Linda at the boatshow.

Peter "Mr. Rocna"& Mike holding our favorite anchor.

Lunch at Pussers with Crystal & Merwin.

Purchased several Fendergrips for easier adjustments when docking.

Going to the Boat Show

FRIDAY- Today we drive the Neaderthal's car to the Annapolis Sail Boat Show. Our main interest is engaging SeaDream's equipment vendors face-to-face. Personal connections are invaluable when trouble shooting problems.

The past few days were filled with typical boat chores. Wednesday Mike spent the entire day reorganizing the “snake's nest” of under-the-helm electronics wiring. Too bad it hadn't been installed neatly, like SeaDream's main wiring systems! Louie and I, meanwhile, washed the deck, and him! Yesterday, after driving Julie to the airport, we used her car for Home Depot and Walmart runs. Having a car again seemed strange but sure saved our feet. I also visited the Maryland Historical Society to photocopy my great-great-grandfather's ship's roster. Most old documents from that time were lost in a fire but his survived. What a thrill to find it! Last night we drove Bob to the airport. Baltimore is becoming more familiar.

We're off to the boat show now, in beautiful, sunny weather. Louie is looking forward to Hanna (a young woman living in a houseboat on the dock) walking with him while we're gone for the day.

Mike's rewiring project at the helm.

Hemming pants on Julie's boat.

Dinner with Bob at Timbuktu near Baltimore airport. Great crab cakes!